Adventures in Mallorca, Spain

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In the summer of 2021, I was itching to plan a solo trip for the Fall. I knew I wanted to go somewhere international, somewhere warm, and a place that had great rock climbing to explore! I decided that Mallorca, a small Spanish island in the Mediterranean, was an ideal location. Spain is a country near and dear to my heart. I studied abroad in San Sebastian in college and have been in love with the country ever since.

I am a great solo traveler and love exploring new places on my own, but I must admit I was intimidated by a solo trip with rock climbing on the agenda. Commuting to the best climbing areas, finding partners, renting a car, etc. was a bit overwhelming. So, when I discovered Rockbusters, a business that hosts guided group climbing trips all over Europe, I breathed a sigh of relief. Rockbusters would accommodate my travel to and from the airport, provide my lodging, take me to the climbing destination each day, show me the routes, and provide individual coaching. Plus, group trip experiences present opportunities to make new friends!

I am big on saving money when I travel, while maintaining some level of comfort and convenience. After running the numbers, I discovered that joining the Rockbusters trip was actually cheaper than doing my own trip, including rental car and hotel costs. I was sold! Not to mention, I found cheap flights for only $400 round trip (using Scott’s Cheap Flights).

This particular trip would introduce me to the best climbing Mallorca has to offer, which includes a type of climbing called deep water soloing (DWS), originally known as Psicobloc. DWS involves climbing without a rope on cliffs above water. Instead of falling on a rope and being caught by a bolt or traditional protection, you just fall into the water! I have always loved playing in water and cliff jumping, so DWS sounded like an exciting new type of climbing to explore.

Packing for the trip was the next hurdle. I was trying to fit all of my stuff in 1 carry-on and 1 personal item to avoid paying extra checked baggage fees (I’m super frugal like that!). Here was my packing list that DID fit into one carry-on suitcase and a small backpack (personal item). This list of items is what I would recommend for a Mallorca climbing trip with Rockbusters.

Once I arrived in Mallorca, I was picked up from the airport by the Rockbusters team. They were so accommodating. They took me to the Campamente Hipocampo, a cute hostel out in the beautiful Spanish country. It’s shared rooms with bunks, as you’d expect at a hostel, so not a 5-star hotel, but I felt right at home on the charming grounds. The owners’ puppy and kitty that roam the property were also quite adorable.

When I arrived, I met Jany, who runs Rockbusters and is the main guide/coach. He introduced me to the rest of the group that I would be climbing with for the next 5 days. The group included climbers from all over Europe and the US.

The next day, we all enjoyed a leisurely morning with coffee, laughs, and discussion about where we would be climbing. Since I was jet-lagged, I was grateful for the lazy start. I had time to go to the local market to get food for the week (I planned on mostly cooking my own meals). We then headed out to the first climbing area around 10:30/11 am. It does not make sense to start climbing any earlier because the rock needs time in the Sun to dry off from the moisture of the ocean.

We arrived at the climbing area, Cala Barques. I felt like I had arrived in paradise when we started our hike to the cliffs, passing a cove surrounded by beautiful turquoise waters. We got to the climbing area and Jany pointed out a bunch of climbs that he thought were reasonable for us to try. A couple folks started on an easy traverse climb that is not too high above the water, which is a good starting point. Jany then pointed to a route rated at 5.10 and encouraged me to get on it. I had to do some down-climbing to access the start, then I slapped some liquid chalk on my hands and got to work! I felt pretty secure as I pulled the moves. I reached an exit point and was ready to walk off when Jany told me to climb the crack above me and top out higher. Crack climbing is my jam (no pun intended), so I was game! I started jamming the crack, but it was very slippery and filled with loose sand. I looked below me and got scared for a minute since I was about 40-45 feet above the water and did not want to fall. What if I hit the water wrong? I decided there was no option but to send the route, so I pulled through that sandy crack and topped out. I was stoked. Jany came up to me, gave me a fist bump and said, ‘You’ve got some balls, nice!’.

After another couple moderate climbs, I decided to give the 5.12a called ‘Metrosexual’ a go (shown in the photo below). No one from our group had sent it after multiple tries. It started out fine for me. Then there was a big reachy move to a shallow dish. I went for the move, but could not get to it. I felt myself slipping and realized I was about to take my first DWS fall! I plunged into the water. Lucky for me, I executed a perfect fall. The water was a delightful temperature as well. I had to swim fast back to shore to avoid getting stung by one of the many jellyfish lurking in the waters. I had a couple more tries on this climb and never ended up topping out. I did pull through the crux of another awesome climb called ‘Hercules’, rated at 5.11b.

Another day we visited a new spot referred to as ‘the lighthouse area’ near the town of Porto Colom. The waters were a little more rough, pushing forcefully against the sides of the rock wall. This made it challenging to get out of the water and back onto the cliffs, but I loved the exciting and wild vibe of the area. There was a fun traverse climb warmup that was long and varied. My favorite moment from this day was climbing a route that Jany suggested to me. I felt a sense of power climbing strong high above the water, hearing the sound of loud crashing waves against the rock below me. I topped out on a small cliff, but the only way to get back down was to jump in the water. I very much enjoyed the victory jump!

In addition to the deep water soloing, we had a couple days of sport climbing. The limestone was a fun deviation from my usual crack climbing focus. I especially loved cragging right next to the ocean!

The great climbing of Mallorca was only rivaled by the great company it kept. Each person in our group was a true gem and I am so grateful to have made these new friends to share the magic of Mallorca with. The group dinners full of laughs, smiles, and stories from different cultures. The support and encouragement each of us showed one another. The tight bond between the female climbers and the ‘ladies’ dance parties fueled by cheap Spanish wine. These experiences and emotions I will not forget. I was also grateful to meet Jany and learn more about his life as a dedicated climber–one who eats, breathes, and sleeps the sport. His ‘just go for it’ coaching style really resonated with me and lit a fire under my a** to not hang around too long on a hold before committing to the next move. For that, I improved as a climber.

My trip to Mallorca was everything I had hoped for and more. The climbing exceeded my expectations. I was not sure I’d enjoy deep water soloing as much as I did. In the beginning, I found it very difficult to commit to the moves high above the water. My mind would race, thinking about how I might face-plant or belly-flop into the water. I wanted to give up and let go if I didn’t think I would be able to pull a dynamic move. I learned how to quiet those thoughts and narrow my focus. What an experience deep water soloing is! Like bouldering, you don’t fall on a rope and get a second chance at the moves. You fall in the water, have to dry off a bit, and THEN you can get back to work..in wet shoes. So, you must make each attempt count!

Something about being on the ocean is very soothing and energizing at the same time. I really felt an aliveness in these moments that was unique to climbing at sea. The sparkling waters, the place where the vast ocean meets up with the sky, the feel of the sea breeze up against my face, the crashing of waves up against the rock, and the unexpected plunge into the water after the slip of a hand or foot on the rock.

I am forever grateful for the conversations, laughs, cries, and feelings of excitement and pure passion shared with my new friends. Mallorca did not only teach me the ways of deep water soloing, but the ways of connecting with the ocean, the rock, and the company I had to enjoy it with.